No city is as intriguing or enchanting as Venice. Although the crowds can be big you’re never more than an alley or bridge away from a completely new discovery (whether it’s your 2nd or 27th trip) in this miraculous city built over water.
SEE Maurizio Nannucci’s take on new beginnings: Changing Place at Peggy Guggenheim's eighteenth-century Palazzo Venier dei Leoni on the Grand Canal.
EAT Dip in and out of the small wine bars or bicari on the Giro di Ombre, the Venetian version of a pub crawl. Start with Ca' d'Oro on Alla Vedova which inspired Russel Norman’s now infamous Polpo. Think squid ink linguine, bursting balls of arancini and perfect meatballs. Or beeline for Paradiso Perduto in Cannaregio for a hopping atmosphere and live music in the evenings.
DRINK There will always be a Bellini at Harry’s Bar but those in the know can grab a Campari spritz from sibling restaurant Harry’s Dolci at Belmond’s Hotel Cipriani (part of any travel bucket list) on Giudecca.
STAY Also on Giudecca island is an unusually inexpensive place to stay: the Generator Hostel (above). The former grain warehouse isn’t all dorms – private doubles start from €33 and come complete with exposed beams and bare brickwork, angle poise lamps and cosy leather armchairs.
Words by Tabitha Joyce. The Iris Letter April 2017.