Restaurant: The Marram Grass, Anglesey

Self taught chef (and 2017 Great British Menu finalist) Ellis Barrie and brother, Liam, show you what you can do with what you've already got at The Marram Grass, Anglesey. The brothers transformed a shed on their parents' caravan park in deepest darkest Wales into an award-winning restaurant that serves up some of the finest food and attracts tourists to the little known area. Ingredients couldn't get more local, with meat reared less than 10 feet from the kitchen on the brothers' own land. The juiciest of mussels come from the Menai Straits at the foot of the caravan park and appear on the menu daily, with a sumptuous sauce and a chunky piece of bread lathered with anchovy butter. The menu changes frequently according to what's available and diners can choose from the daily menu (with prices varying from about £35 for 3 courses) and the Cegin 8 course surprise tasting menu for £85pp with the option to add a £65 drinks flight. themarramgrass.com

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Words by Tess Berry. The Iris Letter April 2018.