The diversity of New York's culinary scene knows no bounds, with everything from the most modern and forward-thinking eateries in the world to the hip and trendy Jewish delis that occupy so many a street corner. Then there are the classics, the eponymous sites that embody all of the glamour and buzz that make New York what it is. For some reason, these timeless restaurants where the food is flawless but by no means frumpy and the atmosphere is sophisticated but unmistakably un-stuffy, are few and far between in London.
One place we can get a whiff of it, however, is at Frenchie, Covent Garden, where Chef Patron Greg Marchand has put his experience at New York's Gramercy Tavern, to good use. Just like at this archetypal New York favourite, the kitchen at Frenchie imaginatively reinvents traditional dishes, with this season's festive menu, for example, serving a succulent duck breast alongside ginger bread and quince. A breathtakingly attentive and astute front of house make guests feel like they're the star of the show in exactly the same way New York's classics do.
If you can't make it to New York, get a taste of its beloved dining scene at Frenchie, Covent Garden. Lunch menus start at £26 and tasting menus at £55.
Words by Tessa Berry. The Iris Letter December 2017.